/* ============================================================
   Aardals Avstikker — handcrafted travel journal
   Earthy palette (paper, terracotta, moss, stone, sunset gold),
   subtle paper grain + topographic texture, organic shapes,
   editorial Fraunces display + handwritten Caveat accents,
   travel-paced motion (drift, reveal, parallax). Light + dark.
   ============================================================ */

@font-face {
  font-family: "Fraunces Variable";
  font-style: normal;
  font-display: swap;
  font-weight: 100 900;
  src: url("/assets/fonts/fraunces-latin-wght-normal.woff2") format("woff2-variations");
}
@font-face {
  font-family: "Caveat";
  font-style: normal;
  font-display: swap;
  font-weight: 400;
  src: url("/assets/fonts/caveat-latin-400-normal.woff2") format("woff2");
}

:root {
  --measure: 42rem;
  --wide: 76rem;

  /* sun-bleached paper, clay, moss, stone, earth */
  --bg: #f3edde;
  --surface: #faf6e9;
  --tint: #ebe2cb;
  --text: #2e271c;
  --muted: #7d7260;
  --accent: #a8542f;        /* terracotta / clay */
  --accent-soft: #c47b53;
  --moss: #5f6b48;          /* olive / moss */
  --moss-soft: #8a936f;
  --gold: #c0954b;          /* sunset gold */
  --border: #ddd2b8;
  --ink: #221c12;

  --space: clamp(1rem, 0.6rem + 2vw, 1.5rem);
  --radius: 18px;
  --radius-sm: 10px;
  /* slightly uneven corners — nothing machine-perfect */
  --radius-organic: 16px 20px 14px 22px;
  --shadow: 0 1px 2px rgb(62 45 24 / 0.06), 0 10px 30px rgb(62 45 24 / 0.08);
  --shadow-lift: 0 2px 4px rgb(62 45 24 / 0.07), 0 22px 48px rgb(62 45 24 / 0.15);

  --font-display: "Fraunces Variable", Georgia, serif;
  --font-hand: "Caveat", "Segoe Script", cursive;
  --font-body: ui-serif, Georgia, Cambria, "Times New Roman", serif;
  --font-ui: ui-sans-serif, system-ui, -apple-system, "Segoe UI", Roboto, sans-serif;
  --font-mono: ui-monospace, "SFMono-Regular", Menlo, Consolas, monospace;

  /* textures (inline SVG — zero requests) */
  --grain: url("data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' width='240' height='240'%3E%3Cfilter id='n'%3E%3CfeTurbulence type='fractalNoise' baseFrequency='0.85' numOctaves='2' stitchTiles='stitch'/%3E%3CfeColorMatrix type='saturate' values='0'/%3E%3C/filter%3E%3Crect width='240' height='240' filter='url(%23n)'/%3E%3C/svg%3E");
  --topo: url("data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' width='560' height='560' viewBox='0 0 560 560'%3E%3Cg fill='none' stroke='%232e271c' stroke-opacity='.055' stroke-width='1.3'%3E%3Cpath d='M60 290c-8-96 78-168 200-162s218 84 204 178-104 152-216 144S68 386 60 290Z'/%3E%3Cpath d='M118 288c-6-68 56-120 146-116s158 62 148 130-76 110-158 104-130-50-136-118Z'/%3E%3Cpath d='M178 286c-4-42 34-74 90-72s98 40 92 82-48 68-98 64-80-32-84-74Z'/%3E%3Cpath d='M14 54c64 18 128-14 196 10 50 18 96-6 142 8'/%3E%3Cpath d='M210 542c70-18 122 12 178-14 44-20 90 4 138-10'/%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/svg%3E");
  --squiggle: url("data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' width='130' height='9' viewBox='0 0 130 9'%3E%3Cpath d='M3 6 C 22 1.5, 44 7.5, 66 4.5 S 108 2, 127 5.5' fill='none' stroke='%23a8542f' stroke-width='2.4' stroke-linecap='round'/%3E%3C/svg%3E");
}

@media (prefers-color-scheme: dark) {
  :root {
    /* forest night: deep earth, lamplit paper */
    --bg: #1c1812;
    --surface: #262017;
    --tint: #211c14;
    --text: #ece4d1;
    --muted: #a3967f;
    --accent: #d8895a;
    --accent-soft: #b06a42;
    --moss: #97a075;
    --moss-soft: #76805a;
    --gold: #d3ab68;
    --border: #393023;
    --ink: #14100a;
    --shadow: 0 1px 2px rgb(0 0 0 / 0.35), 0 10px 30px rgb(0 0 0 / 0.4);
    --shadow-lift: 0 2px 4px rgb(0 0 0 / 0.4), 0 22px 48px rgb(0 0 0 / 0.55);
    --topo: url("data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' width='560' height='560' viewBox='0 0 560 560'%3E%3Cg fill='none' stroke='%23ece4d1' stroke-opacity='.045' stroke-width='1.3'%3E%3Cpath d='M60 290c-8-96 78-168 200-162s218 84 204 178-104 152-216 144S68 386 60 290Z'/%3E%3Cpath d='M118 288c-6-68 56-120 146-116s158 62 148 130-76 110-158 104-130-50-136-118Z'/%3E%3Cpath d='M178 286c-4-42 34-74 90-72s98 40 92 82-48 68-98 64-80-32-84-74Z'/%3E%3Cpath d='M14 54c64 18 128-14 196 10 50 18 96-6 142 8'/%3E%3Cpath d='M210 542c70-18 122 12 178-14 44-20 90 4 138-10'/%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/svg%3E");
    --squiggle: url("data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' width='130' height='9' viewBox='0 0 130 9'%3E%3Cpath d='M3 6 C 22 1.5, 44 7.5, 66 4.5 S 108 2, 127 5.5' fill='none' stroke='%23d8895a' stroke-width='2.4' stroke-linecap='round'/%3E%3C/svg%3E");
  }
}

*,
*::before,
*::after { box-sizing: border-box; }

html { -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; scroll-behavior: smooth; }

body {
  margin: 0;
  background: var(--bg);
  color: var(--text);
  font-family: var(--font-body);
  font-size: clamp(1.05rem, 1rem + 0.3vw, 1.2rem);
  line-height: 1.72;
  text-rendering: optimizeLegibility;
  -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased;
  display: flex;
  flex-direction: column;
  min-height: 100vh;
}

/* paper grain over everything — the page feels printed, not rendered */
body::after {
  content: "";
  position: fixed;
  inset: 0;
  z-index: 60;
  pointer-events: none;
  background: var(--grain) repeat;
  opacity: 0.05;
}
@media (prefers-color-scheme: dark) {
  body::after { opacity: 0.07; }
}

main { flex: 1; }

.wrap {
  width: 100%;
  max-width: var(--measure);
  margin-inline: auto;
  padding-inline: var(--space);
}
.wrap--wide { max-width: var(--wide); }

.full-bleed {
  width: 100vw;
  margin-left: calc(50% - 50vw);
}

img { max-width: 100%; height: auto; }

/* ---------- typography ---------- */
h1, h2, h3 {
  font-family: var(--font-display);
  font-weight: 580;
  line-height: 1.1;
  letter-spacing: -0.015em;
  margin: 2.2rem 0 0.6rem;
  text-wrap: balance;
}
h1 { font-size: clamp(2.2rem, 1.5rem + 3vw, 3.6rem); margin-top: 0; font-weight: 540; }
h2 { font-size: clamp(1.7rem, 1.2rem + 1.8vw, 2.4rem); }
h3 { font-size: clamp(1.2rem, 1.05rem + 0.7vw, 1.45rem); }
p { margin: 0 0 1.2rem; }

a { color: var(--accent); text-underline-offset: 0.18em; transition: color 0.2s ease; }
a:hover { color: var(--moss); }

.eyebrow {
  font-family: var(--font-ui);
  font-size: 0.76rem;
  font-weight: 650;
  text-transform: uppercase;
  letter-spacing: 0.16em;
  color: var(--moss);
  margin: 0 0 0.9rem;
  display: flex;
  align-items: center;
  flex-wrap: wrap;
  gap: 0.45em;
}
.eyebrow--light { color: rgb(255 250 240 / 0.85); }

.lede {
  font-size: 1.18em;
  line-height: 1.55;
  color: var(--muted);
  text-wrap: pretty;
}

.flag {
  display: inline-block;
  width: 20px;
  height: 15px;
  border-radius: 3px;
  object-fit: cover;
  vertical-align: -0.12em;
  filter: sepia(0.12) saturate(0.85);
  box-shadow: 0 0 0 1px rgb(46 39 28 / 0.15);
}

code, pre { font-family: var(--font-mono); font-size: 0.9em; }
pre {
  background: var(--surface);
  border: 1px solid var(--border);
  border-radius: var(--radius-sm);
  padding: 1rem 1.1rem;
  overflow-x: auto;
  line-height: 1.5;
}
:not(pre) > code {
  background: var(--surface);
  border: 1px solid var(--border);
  border-radius: 5px;
  padding: 0.1rem 0.35rem;
}

blockquote {
  margin: 2.2rem 0;
  padding-left: 1.2rem;
  border-left: 3px solid var(--gold);
  font-style: italic;
  color: var(--muted);
  font-size: 1.1em;
}

hr {
  border: 0;
  height: 9px;
  background: var(--squiggle) no-repeat center;
  margin: 3rem auto;
  width: 130px;
}

/* ---------- header ---------- */
.site-header {
  position: sticky;
  top: 0;
  z-index: 20;
  background: color-mix(in srgb, var(--bg) 86%, transparent);
  backdrop-filter: blur(10px);
  border-bottom: 1px solid var(--border);
  font-family: var(--font-ui);
}
.site-header nav {
  display: flex;
  align-items: center;
  justify-content: space-between;
  gap: 1.2rem;
  padding-block: 0.9rem;
}
.brand {
  font-family: var(--font-display);
  font-weight: 620;
  font-size: 1.3rem;
  letter-spacing: -0.01em;
  text-decoration: none;
  color: var(--text);
}
.brand:hover { color: var(--accent); }
.nav-links {
  display: flex;
  gap: 1.4rem;
  list-style: none;
  margin: 0 0 0 auto;
  padding: 0;
  font-size: 0.92rem;
  font-weight: 500;
}
.nav-links a { color: var(--muted); text-decoration: none; }
.nav-links a:hover { color: var(--accent); }

/* ---------- account menu (hamburger) ---------- */
.nav-account { position: relative; display: flex; align-items: center; }
.hamburger {
  display: flex;
  flex-direction: column;
  justify-content: center;
  gap: 4px;
  width: 2.4rem;
  height: 2.4rem;
  padding: 0 0.55rem;
  background: transparent;
  border: 1px solid var(--border);
  border-radius: 9px 11px 9px 12px;
  cursor: pointer;
}
.hamburger span { height: 2px; background: var(--text); border-radius: 2px; }
.hamburger:hover { border-color: var(--accent-soft); }
.usermenu {
  position: absolute;
  right: 0;
  top: calc(100% + 0.5rem);
  min-width: 13rem;
  background: var(--surface);
  border: 1px solid var(--border);
  border-radius: var(--radius-organic);
  box-shadow: var(--shadow-lift);
  padding: 0.5rem;
  z-index: 30;
  font-family: var(--font-ui);
}
.usermenu-id {
  display: flex;
  flex-direction: column;
  gap: 0.1rem;
  padding: 0.5rem 0.7rem 0.6rem;
  margin: 0 0 0.3rem;
  border-bottom: 1px dashed var(--border);
  font-size: 0.95rem;
  font-weight: 650;
}
.usermenu-role { font-weight: 500; font-size: 0.78rem; color: var(--moss); }
.usermenu-item {
  display: block;
  width: 100%;
  text-align: left;
  font: inherit;
  font-size: 0.92rem;
  color: var(--text);
  background: transparent;
  border: 0;
  border-radius: 7px;
  padding: 0.55rem 0.7rem;
  cursor: pointer;
  text-decoration: none;
}
.usermenu-item:hover { background: var(--tint); color: var(--accent); }
.usermenu-item--quiet { color: var(--muted); }

/* ---------- hero ---------- */
.hero {
  position: relative;
  min-height: clamp(34rem, 92vh, 54rem);
  display: flex;
  align-items: flex-end;
  overflow: hidden;
  color: #fdf9ef;
}
.hero-img {
  position: absolute;
  inset: 0;
  width: 100%;
  height: 100%;
  object-fit: cover;
  animation: hero-drift 38s ease-in-out infinite alternate;
}
@keyframes hero-drift {
  from { transform: scale(1.04) translateX(-0.7%); }
  to   { transform: scale(1.1) translateX(0.8%); }
}
.hero-overlay {
  position: absolute;
  inset: 0;
  background: linear-gradient(180deg, rgb(40 28 14 / 0.22) 0%, rgb(40 28 14 / 0.04) 38%, rgb(33 22 10 / 0.66) 100%);
}
/* dashed journey trace drifting across the hero, like a route on a map */
.hero-route {
  position: absolute;
  right: 4vw;
  top: 9%;
  width: min(40vw, 34rem);
  height: auto;
  opacity: 0.5;
  pointer-events: none;
}
.hero-route path {
  stroke: #fdf9ef;
  stroke-width: 2.4;
  stroke-linecap: round;
  stroke-dasharray: 4 12;
  animation: route-drift 70s linear infinite;
}
.hero-route circle { fill: #fdf9ef; }
@keyframes route-drift { to { stroke-dashoffset: -640; } }
@media (max-width: 46rem) { .hero-route { display: none; } }

.hero-content {
  position: relative;
  width: 100%;
  padding-block: clamp(3.2rem, 7vw, 5.5rem);
}
.hero-title {
  font-size: clamp(2.8rem, 2rem + 6vw, 5.8rem);
  font-weight: 440;
  color: #fdf9ef;
  margin: 0 0 1rem;
  max-width: 14ch;
  text-shadow: 0 2px 26px rgb(30 20 8 / 0.35);
}
.hero-now {
  font-family: var(--font-ui);
  font-size: clamp(1rem, 0.95rem + 0.4vw, 1.15rem);
  color: rgb(253 249 239 / 0.9);
  display: flex;
  align-items: center;
  gap: 0.6em;
  margin-bottom: 1.7rem;
}
.hero-now strong {
  font-family: var(--font-hand);
  font-weight: 400;
  font-size: 1.5em;
  color: #fdf9ef;
  letter-spacing: 0.01em;
}
.pulse-dot {
  width: 0.65em;
  height: 0.65em;
  border-radius: 50%;
  background: #e8b35a;
  flex: none;
  box-shadow: 0 0 0 0 rgb(232 179 90 / 0.6);
  animation: pulse 2.8s ease-out infinite;
}
@keyframes pulse {
  0%   { box-shadow: 0 0 0 0 rgb(232 179 90 / 0.5); }
  70%  { box-shadow: 0 0 0 14px rgb(232 179 90 / 0); }
  100% { box-shadow: 0 0 0 0 rgb(232 179 90 / 0); }
}
.hero-cta {
  display: inline-block;
  font-family: var(--font-ui);
  font-size: 0.92rem;
  font-weight: 600;
  letter-spacing: 0.02em;
  color: #fdf9ef;
  text-decoration: none;
  border: 1px solid rgb(253 249 239 / 0.5);
  border-radius: 999px 999px 999px 999px / 999px 880px 999px 920px;
  padding: 0.65rem 1.4rem;
  backdrop-filter: blur(4px);
  background: rgb(253 249 239 / 0.08);
  transition: background 0.25s ease, border-color 0.25s ease;
}
.hero-cta:hover { background: rgb(253 249 239 / 0.18); border-color: rgb(253 249 239 / 0.85); color: #fdf9ef; }

/* soft paper wave between hero and the journal */
.hero-wave {
  position: absolute;
  left: 0;
  right: 0;
  bottom: -1px;
  width: 100%;
  height: clamp(2.2rem, 5vw, 4.2rem);
  display: block;
  pointer-events: none;
}
.hero-wave path { fill: var(--bg); }

/* ---------- sections ---------- */
.section { padding-block: clamp(3rem, 4vw + 1.5rem, 5.5rem); }
.section--tinted {
  background: var(--tint);
  background-image: var(--topo);
  background-size: 560px;
}
.section--tinted .wrap { padding-block: clamp(3rem, 4vw + 1.5rem, 5.5rem); }

.section-header {
  display: flex;
  align-items: baseline;
  justify-content: space-between;
  gap: 1rem;
  flex-wrap: wrap;
  margin-bottom: 2.2rem;
}
.section-header h2 {
  margin: 0;
  padding-bottom: 0.55rem;
  background: var(--squiggle) no-repeat left bottom;
}
.section-sub { font-family: var(--font-ui); color: var(--muted); font-size: 0.95rem; margin: 0; }
.section-link {
  font-family: var(--font-ui);
  font-size: 0.92rem;
  font-weight: 600;
  text-decoration: none;
}
.section-link:hover { text-decoration: underline; }

.page-header { margin-bottom: 2.5rem; }
.page-header h1 { padding-bottom: 0.55rem; background: var(--squiggle) no-repeat left bottom; }

/* ---------- story cards — pinned photographs, not UI tiles ---------- */
.cards {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fill, minmax(min(21rem, 100%), 1fr));
  gap: clamp(1.4rem, 2.4vw, 2.4rem);
}
.card {
  background: var(--surface);
  border: 1px solid var(--border);
  border-radius: var(--radius-organic);
  overflow: hidden;
  box-shadow: var(--shadow);
  rotate: var(--tilt, 0deg);
  translate: 0 var(--shift, 0px);
  transition: rotate 0.45s cubic-bezier(0.2, 0.7, 0.3, 1),
              translate 0.45s cubic-bezier(0.2, 0.7, 0.3, 1),
              box-shadow 0.45s ease;
}
.cards .card:nth-child(3n + 1) { --tilt: -0.5deg; }
.cards .card:nth-child(3n + 2) { --tilt: 0.45deg; --shift: 16px; }
.cards .card:nth-child(3n)     { --tilt: -0.25deg; --shift: 7px; }
.card:hover {
  rotate: 0deg;
  translate: 0 calc(var(--shift, 0px) - 6px);
  box-shadow: var(--shadow-lift);
}
.card-link { display: block; color: inherit; text-decoration: none; height: 100%; }
.card-media { aspect-ratio: 3 / 2; overflow: hidden; }
.card-media img {
  width: 100%;
  height: 100%;
  object-fit: cover;
  transition: transform 0.8s cubic-bezier(0.2, 0.7, 0.3, 1);
}
.card:hover .card-media img { transform: scale(1.05); }
.card-body { padding: 1.3rem 1.4rem 1.5rem; }
.card-body .eyebrow { margin-bottom: 0.55rem; }
.card-title { margin: 0 0 0.5rem; font-size: 1.38rem; line-height: 1.18; }
.card-excerpt {
  font-size: 0.97rem;
  color: var(--muted);
  margin: 0 0 0.9rem;
  display: -webkit-box;
  -webkit-line-clamp: 3;
  -webkit-box-orient: vertical;
  overflow: hidden;
}
.card-more {
  font-family: var(--font-ui);
  font-size: 0.88rem;
  font-weight: 600;
  color: var(--accent);
}

/* ---------- filter chips ---------- */
.filter-bar {
  display: flex;
  gap: 0.5rem;
  flex-wrap: wrap;
  margin-bottom: 2rem;
}
.chip {
  font-family: var(--font-ui);
  font-size: 0.8rem;
  font-weight: 650;
  text-transform: uppercase;
  letter-spacing: 0.08em;
  color: var(--muted);
  background: var(--surface);
  border: 1px solid var(--border);
  border-radius: 999px 999px 999px 999px / 999px 870px 999px 900px;
  padding: 0.45rem 1.1rem;
  cursor: pointer;
  transition: color 0.2s ease, background 0.2s ease, border-color 0.2s ease;
}
.chip:hover { color: var(--accent); border-color: var(--accent-soft); }
.chip[aria-pressed="true"] {
  color: var(--surface);
  background: var(--moss);
  border-color: var(--moss);
}

/* ---------- countries — a passport-stamp collection ---------- */
.country-grid {
  list-style: none;
  margin: 0;
  padding: 0;
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fill, minmax(min(15.5rem, 100%), 1fr));
  gap: 1.3rem 1.1rem;
}
.country {
  position: relative;
  display: flex;
  align-items: center;
  gap: 0.95rem;
  background: var(--surface);
  border: 2px solid color-mix(in srgb, var(--moss) 60%, var(--border));
  border-radius: 14px 18px 12px 20px;
  box-shadow: inset 0 0 0 4px var(--surface), inset 0 0 0 5px color-mix(in srgb, var(--moss) 35%, transparent);
  padding: 1.05rem 1.15rem;
  rotate: var(--tilt, 0deg);
  transition: rotate 0.4s cubic-bezier(0.2, 0.7, 0.3, 1), box-shadow 0.4s ease, translate 0.4s ease;
}
.country-grid .country:nth-child(4n + 1) { --tilt: -1.3deg; }
.country-grid .country:nth-child(4n + 2) { --tilt: 0.9deg; }
.country-grid .country:nth-child(4n + 3) { --tilt: -0.6deg; }
.country-grid .country:nth-child(4n)     { --tilt: 1.4deg; }
.country:hover { rotate: 0deg; translate: 0 -3px; box-shadow: inset 0 0 0 4px var(--surface), inset 0 0 0 5px color-mix(in srgb, var(--moss) 35%, transparent), var(--shadow); }
.country[hidden] { display: none; }
.country-flag {
  width: 40px;
  height: 30px;
  border-radius: 4px 6px 4px 7px;
  object-fit: cover;
  flex: none;
  filter: sepia(0.18) saturate(0.8);
  box-shadow: 0 0 0 1px rgb(46 39 28 / 0.18);
}
.country-body { display: flex; flex-direction: column; min-width: 0; }
.country-name {
  font-family: var(--font-ui);
  font-weight: 750;
  font-size: 0.92rem;
  text-transform: uppercase;
  letter-spacing: 0.09em;
  color: color-mix(in srgb, var(--moss) 75%, var(--text));
}
.country-meta {
  font-family: var(--font-ui);
  font-size: 0.74rem;
  text-transform: uppercase;
  letter-spacing: 0.07em;
  color: var(--muted);
  margin-top: 0.15rem;
}
.country-visits {
  margin-left: auto;
  font-family: var(--font-hand);
  font-size: 1.15rem;
  color: var(--accent);
  flex: none;
  rotate: -6deg;
}

/* ---------- journey stats ---------- */
.journey-stats {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fit, minmax(min(9rem, 100%), 1fr));
  gap: 1.1rem;
  margin-bottom: 3.2rem;
}
.journey-stats > div {
  background: var(--surface);
  border: 1px solid var(--border);
  border-radius: var(--radius-organic);
  padding: 1.3rem 1.2rem 1.1rem;
  text-align: center;
  box-shadow: var(--shadow);
}
.stat-num {
  display: block;
  font-family: var(--font-display);
  font-weight: 540;
  font-size: clamp(2rem, 1.5rem + 1.8vw, 2.8rem);
  line-height: 1;
  letter-spacing: -0.02em;
  color: var(--text);
}
.stat-label {
  display: block;
  font-family: var(--font-ui);
  font-size: 0.76rem;
  font-weight: 650;
  text-transform: uppercase;
  letter-spacing: 0.13em;
  color: var(--moss);
  margin-top: 0.5rem;
}

/* ---------- route — a trace on the map ---------- */
#ruten {
  background-image: var(--topo);
  background-size: 560px;
  background-position: right -120px top -80px;
  background-repeat: no-repeat;
}
.route-line {
  list-style: none;
  margin: 0;
  padding: 0;
  max-width: 38rem;
}
.route-stop {
  position: relative;
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: 1.4rem 1fr;
  gap: 1.1rem;
  padding-bottom: 2.3rem;
}
.route-stop::before {
  content: "";
  position: absolute;
  left: calc(0.7rem - 1px);
  top: 1.35rem;
  bottom: -0.15rem;
  width: 0;
  border-left: 2.5px dashed var(--moss-soft);
}
.route-stop:last-child { padding-bottom: 0; }
.route-stop:last-child::before { display: none; }
.route-marker {
  width: 0.95rem;
  height: 0.95rem;
  margin-top: 0.35rem;
  margin-left: 0.22rem;
  border-radius: 50% 46% 52% 48%;
  background: var(--bg);
  border: 2.5px solid var(--moss);
  flex: none;
}
.route-stop--current .route-marker {
  border-color: var(--accent);
  background: var(--accent);
  box-shadow: 0 0 0 0 color-mix(in srgb, var(--accent) 55%, transparent);
  animation: pulse-route 2.8s ease-out infinite;
}
@keyframes pulse-route {
  0%   { box-shadow: 0 0 0 0 color-mix(in srgb, var(--accent) 45%, transparent); }
  70%  { box-shadow: 0 0 0 12px transparent; }
  100% { box-shadow: 0 0 0 0 transparent; }
}
.route-place { margin: 0; font-size: 1.06rem; display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 0.45em; flex-wrap: wrap; }
.route-here {
  font-family: var(--font-hand);
  font-size: 1.25rem;
  color: var(--accent);
  rotate: -3deg;
  padding: 0 0.3rem;
}
.route-meta { margin: 0.15rem 0 0; font-family: var(--font-ui); font-size: 0.85rem; color: var(--muted); }
.route-note {
  margin: 0.4rem 0 0;
  font-family: var(--font-hand);
  font-size: 1.25rem;
  line-height: 1.3;
  color: color-mix(in srgb, var(--muted) 80%, var(--text));
}

/* ---------- journal archive ---------- */
.journal-list { list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; }
.journal-row { padding-block: 1.4rem; border-bottom: 1px dashed var(--border); }
.journal-row:first-child { border-top: 1px dashed var(--border); }
.journal-link {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: 9.5rem 1fr auto;
  gap: 0.4rem 1.4rem;
  align-items: baseline;
  text-decoration: none;
  color: inherit;
}
.journal-date { font-family: var(--font-ui); font-size: 0.85rem; color: var(--muted); white-space: nowrap; }
.journal-title {
  font-family: var(--font-display);
  font-weight: 580;
  font-size: 1.28rem;
  letter-spacing: -0.01em;
  transition: color 0.2s ease;
}
.journal-link:hover .journal-title { color: var(--accent); }
.journal-place { font-family: var(--font-ui); font-size: 0.85rem; color: var(--muted); white-space: nowrap; }
.journal-excerpt { margin: 0.3rem 0 0; padding-left: calc(9.5rem + 1.4rem); font-size: 0.95rem; color: var(--muted); }
@media (max-width: 40rem) {
  .journal-link { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .journal-excerpt { padding-left: 0; }
}

/* ---------- post ---------- */
.post-hero {
  max-height: 72vh;
  overflow: hidden;
  margin-bottom: clamp(2rem, 4vw, 3.5rem);
}
.post-hero img { width: 100%; height: 100%; object-fit: cover; display: block; scale: 1.12; }
.post-header { margin-bottom: 2rem; }
.post-header h1 { max-width: 18ch; }

.travel-meta { margin-bottom: 2.6rem; font-family: var(--font-ui); }
.travel-meta dl {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fit, minmax(min(11rem, 100%), 1fr));
  gap: 1rem 1.5rem;
  margin: 0;
  background: var(--surface);
  border: 1px dashed color-mix(in srgb, var(--moss) 45%, var(--border));
  border-radius: var(--radius-organic);
  padding: 1.2rem 1.4rem;
  box-shadow: var(--shadow);
  rotate: -0.3deg;
}
.travel-meta dt {
  font-size: 0.7rem;
  font-weight: 750;
  text-transform: uppercase;
  letter-spacing: 0.13em;
  color: var(--moss);
  margin-bottom: 0.2rem;
}
.travel-meta dd { margin: 0; font-size: 0.95rem; }
.coords { font-family: var(--font-mono); font-size: 0.88em; }

.post-body { padding-bottom: 1rem; }
.post-body > p:first-of-type { font-size: 1.12em; line-height: 1.62; }
.post-body > p:first-of-type::first-letter {
  font-family: var(--font-display);
  font-weight: 600;
  font-size: 3.1em;
  line-height: 0.82;
  float: left;
  padding: 0.08em 0.12em 0 0;
  color: var(--accent);
}
.post-body img { border-radius: var(--radius-sm); }

.post-footer { padding-block: 2.5rem 4rem; }
.post-nav {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr;
  gap: 1rem;
  margin-bottom: 1.8rem;
}
.post-nav-link {
  display: flex;
  flex-direction: column;
  gap: 0.25rem;
  text-decoration: none;
  background: var(--surface);
  border: 1px solid var(--border);
  border-radius: var(--radius-organic);
  padding: 1.1rem 1.3rem;
  box-shadow: var(--shadow);
  translate: 0 0;
  transition: translate 0.35s cubic-bezier(0.2, 0.7, 0.3, 1), box-shadow 0.35s ease;
}
.post-nav-link:hover { translate: 0 -3px; box-shadow: var(--shadow-lift); }
.post-nav-link--next { text-align: right; grid-column: 2; }
.post-nav-label {
  font-family: var(--font-ui);
  font-size: 0.76rem;
  font-weight: 650;
  text-transform: uppercase;
  letter-spacing: 0.11em;
  color: var(--moss);
}
.post-nav-title { font-family: var(--font-display); font-weight: 560; color: var(--text); }
.post-back { font-family: var(--font-ui); font-size: 0.92rem; }
.post-back a { text-decoration: none; }
@media (max-width: 40rem) {
  .post-nav { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .post-nav-link--next { grid-column: auto; text-align: left; }
}

/* ---------- galleries — printed photographs, lightly pinned ---------- */
.gallery { margin: 2.4rem 0; display: grid; gap: 1.3rem; }
.gallery--grid { grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fit, minmax(min(16rem, 100%), 1fr)); }
.gallery--showcase { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
.gallery--masonry { display: block; columns: 2 16rem; column-gap: 1.3rem; }
.gallery--masonry .gallery-item { break-inside: avoid; margin-bottom: 1.3rem; }
.gallery-item {
  margin: 0;
  background: var(--surface);
  border: 1px solid var(--border);
  border-radius: var(--radius-sm);
  padding: 0.6rem 0.6rem 0.55rem;
  box-shadow: var(--shadow);
  rotate: var(--tilt, 0deg);
  transition: rotate 0.45s cubic-bezier(0.2, 0.7, 0.3, 1), box-shadow 0.45s ease;
}
.gallery--grid .gallery-item:nth-child(2n)     { --tilt: 0.7deg; }
.gallery--grid .gallery-item:nth-child(2n + 1) { --tilt: -0.55deg; }
.gallery--masonry .gallery-item:nth-child(3n)     { --tilt: 0.6deg; }
.gallery--masonry .gallery-item:nth-child(3n + 1) { --tilt: -0.5deg; }
.gallery-item:hover { rotate: 0deg; box-shadow: var(--shadow-lift); }
.gallery--showcase .gallery-item { --tilt: 0deg; }
.gallery-link { display: block; border-radius: 6px; overflow: hidden; }
.gallery-link img {
  display: block;
  width: 100%;
  height: 100%;
  object-fit: cover;
  border-radius: 6px;
  transition: transform 0.7s cubic-bezier(0.2, 0.7, 0.3, 1);
}
.gallery-link:hover img { transform: scale(1.035); }
.gallery--grid .gallery-link { aspect-ratio: 3 / 2; }
.gallery-caption {
  font-family: var(--font-hand);
  font-size: 1.18rem;
  line-height: 1.25;
  color: var(--muted);
  margin-top: 0.5rem;
  padding-inline: 0.2rem;
}

/* let albums breathe wider than the text column */
@media (min-width: 54rem) {
  .post-body .gallery {
    width: min(86vw, 56rem);
    margin-left: calc(50% - min(43vw, 28rem));
  }
}

/* ---------- lightbox ---------- */
.lightbox {
  border: 0;
  padding: 0;
  background: transparent;
  max-width: min(92vw, 75rem);
  max-height: 92vh;
}
.lightbox::backdrop { background: rgb(24 17 8 / 0.9); backdrop-filter: blur(6px); }
.lightbox-figure { margin: 0; display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: 0.6rem; }
.lightbox-figure img {
  max-width: min(92vw, 75rem);
  max-height: 82vh;
  width: auto;
  height: auto;
  object-fit: contain;
  border-radius: var(--radius-sm);
}
.lightbox-caption {
  font-family: var(--font-hand);
  font-size: 1.3rem;
  color: rgb(253 249 239 / 0.88);
  text-align: center;
  min-height: 1.3em;
}
.lightbox-controls { display: flex; justify-content: center; gap: 0.6rem; margin-top: 0.4rem; }
.lightbox-btn {
  font-family: var(--font-ui);
  font-size: 0.9rem;
  font-weight: 600;
  color: #fdf9ef;
  background: rgb(253 249 239 / 0.12);
  border: 1px solid rgb(253 249 239 / 0.3);
  border-radius: 999px;
  padding: 0.5rem 1.1rem;
  cursor: pointer;
  transition: background 0.2s ease;
}
.lightbox-btn:hover { background: rgb(253 249 239 / 0.25); }

/* ---------- video ---------- */
.video-figure { margin: 2.4rem 0; }
.video-figure video {
  width: 100%;
  border-radius: var(--radius-sm);
  background: var(--ink);
  display: block;
}

/* ---------- footer ---------- */
.site-footer {
  border-top: 1px solid var(--border);
  background: var(--tint);
  background-image: var(--topo);
  background-size: 560px;
  font-family: var(--font-ui);
  color: var(--muted);
  padding-block: 2.6rem 1.8rem;
  margin-top: 3rem;
}
body.home .site-footer { margin-top: 0; }
.footer-grid {
  display: flex;
  justify-content: space-between;
  align-items: flex-start;
  gap: 2rem;
  flex-wrap: wrap;
  margin-bottom: 1.6rem;
}
.footer-brand {
  font-family: var(--font-display);
  font-weight: 620;
  font-size: 1.2rem;
  color: var(--text);
  margin: 0 0 0.2rem;
}
.footer-tagline { font-family: var(--font-hand); font-size: 1.3rem; margin: 0; color: var(--muted); }
.footer-links { list-style: none; display: flex; gap: 1.4rem; margin: 0; padding: 0; font-size: 0.9rem; }
.footer-links a { color: var(--muted); text-decoration: none; }
.footer-links a:hover { color: var(--accent); }
.footer-fineprint { font-size: 0.8rem; margin: 0; opacity: 0.8; }

/* ---------- auth screens (login / set-password) ---------- */
.auth-body {
  background:
    radial-gradient(120% 80% at 50% -10%, color-mix(in srgb, var(--gold) 16%, transparent), transparent 60%),
    var(--bg);
}
.auth-shell {
  min-height: 100vh;
  display: flex;
  flex-direction: column;
  align-items: center;
  justify-content: center;
  gap: 1.5rem;
  padding: var(--space);
}
.auth-card {
  width: 100%;
  max-width: 25rem;
  background: var(--surface);
  border: 1px solid var(--border);
  border-radius: var(--radius-organic);
  box-shadow: var(--shadow-lift);
  padding: clamp(1.6rem, 1rem + 3vw, 2.6rem);
}
.auth-brand {
  font-family: var(--font-display);
  font-weight: 620;
  font-size: 1.15rem;
  letter-spacing: -0.01em;
  margin: 0 0 1.4rem;
}
.auth-title { font-size: clamp(1.6rem, 1.3rem + 1.4vw, 2rem); margin: 0 0 0.5rem; }
.auth-sub { color: var(--muted); font-size: 0.98rem; margin: 0 0 1.5rem; }
.auth-form { display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: 1rem; }
.field { display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: 0.35rem; }
.field span {
  font-family: var(--font-ui);
  font-size: 0.82rem;
  font-weight: 600;
  letter-spacing: 0.02em;
  color: var(--muted);
}
.field input {
  font: inherit;
  font-family: var(--font-ui);
  color: var(--text);
  background: var(--bg);
  border: 1px solid var(--border);
  border-radius: var(--radius-sm);
  padding: 0.7rem 0.85rem;
}
.field input:focus-visible { outline: 2px solid var(--accent); outline-offset: 1px; border-color: var(--accent); }
.auth-btn {
  font-family: var(--font-ui);
  font-size: 0.98rem;
  font-weight: 650;
  color: #fdf9ef;
  background: var(--accent);
  border: 0;
  border-radius: var(--radius-sm);
  padding: 0.8rem 1rem;
  cursor: pointer;
  margin-top: 0.3rem;
  transition: background 0.2s ease, translate 0.15s ease;
}
.auth-btn:hover { background: color-mix(in srgb, var(--accent) 88%, #000); }
.auth-btn:active { translate: 0 1px; }
.auth-btn:disabled { opacity: 0.6; cursor: progress; }
.auth-btn--ghost { background: transparent; color: var(--text); border: 1px solid var(--border); }
.auth-btn--ghost:hover { background: var(--tint); }
.auth-note { font-family: var(--font-ui); font-size: 0.82rem; color: var(--muted); margin: 1.3rem 0 0; }
.auth-error {
  font-family: var(--font-ui);
  font-size: 0.9rem;
  color: #a03325;
  background: color-mix(in srgb, #a03325 10%, transparent);
  border: 1px solid color-mix(in srgb, #a03325 30%, transparent);
  border-radius: var(--radius-sm);
  padding: 0.7rem 0.85rem;
  margin-bottom: 1.1rem;
}
@media (prefers-color-scheme: dark) { .auth-error { color: #eba89b; } }
.auth-foot { font-family: var(--font-hand); font-size: 1.25rem; color: var(--muted); margin: 0; }

/* ---------- modal (invite) ---------- */
.modal {
  border: 0;
  padding: 0;
  background: transparent;
  max-width: min(92vw, 30rem);
}
.modal::backdrop { background: rgb(34 24 12 / 0.55); backdrop-filter: blur(4px); }
.modal-card {
  background: var(--surface);
  border: 1px solid var(--border);
  border-radius: var(--radius-organic);
  box-shadow: var(--shadow-lift);
  padding: clamp(1.4rem, 1rem + 2vw, 2rem);
}
.modal-title { margin: 0 0 0.4rem; font-size: 1.4rem; }
.modal-sub { color: var(--muted); font-size: 0.92rem; margin: 0 0 1.2rem; font-family: var(--font-ui); }
.modal-actions { display: flex; gap: 0.6rem; justify-content: flex-end; margin-top: 1.2rem; }
.modal-result { font-family: var(--font-ui); font-size: 0.95rem; }
.copyrow { margin: 0.6rem 0; }
.copyrow input {
  width: 100%;
  font-family: var(--font-mono);
  font-size: 0.82rem;
  padding: 0.6rem 0.7rem;
  border: 1px solid var(--border);
  border-radius: var(--radius-sm);
  background: var(--bg);
  color: var(--text);
}

/* ---------- admin console ---------- */
.admin-block { margin: 0 0 2.5rem; }
.admin-empty { color: var(--muted); font-family: var(--font-ui); }
.admin-row {
  display: flex;
  flex-wrap: wrap;
  align-items: center;
  justify-content: space-between;
  gap: 0.8rem 1rem;
  padding: 1rem 0;
  border-bottom: 1px dashed var(--border);
  font-family: var(--font-ui);
}
.admin-row:first-child { border-top: 1px dashed var(--border); }
.admin-row strong { display: block; font-family: var(--font-display); font-weight: 580; }
.admin-meta { display: block; font-size: 0.82rem; color: var(--muted); }
.admin-row-actions { display: flex; gap: 0.5rem; align-items: center; }
.admin-row-actions .auth-btn { padding: 0.45rem 0.9rem; font-size: 0.85rem; }
.admin-row-actions select {
  font: inherit;
  font-size: 0.85rem;
  padding: 0.4rem 0.6rem;
  border: 1px solid var(--border);
  border-radius: var(--radius-sm);
  background: var(--bg);
  color: var(--text);
}
.admin-link { flex-basis: 100%; }

/* ---------- travel-paced reveal motion (driven by js/reveal.js) ---------- */
.will-reveal {
  opacity: 0;
  transform: translateY(26px);
  transition: opacity 1s ease, transform 1s cubic-bezier(0.2, 0.7, 0.3, 1);
}
.will-reveal.is-visible {
  opacity: 1;
  transform: none;
}

/* ---------- accessibility ---------- */
.skip-link {
  position: absolute;
  left: -9999px;
  top: 0;
  background: var(--accent);
  color: #fdf9ef;
  padding: 0.6rem 1rem;
  border-radius: 0 0 var(--radius-sm) 0;
  font-family: var(--font-ui);
  z-index: 70;
}
.skip-link:focus { left: 0; }

:focus-visible { outline: 2px solid var(--accent); outline-offset: 3px; border-radius: 2px; }

@media (prefers-reduced-motion: reduce) {
  html { scroll-behavior: auto; }
  *, *::before, *::after {
    animation-duration: 0.01ms !important;
    animation-iteration-count: 1 !important;
    transition-duration: 0.01ms !important;
  }
  .will-reveal { opacity: 1; transform: none; }
}